Days 1,2, and 3
Dear Steph:
These next 4 emails will bring you up to speed on
the trip so far as I have
typed it.
Subject: South America - Days 1, 2, and
3
Dear Friends:
- Well, this letter is going out to many
friends, so I should bring some of
- you up to speed. After 20 years, a
great many of my dear friends in
- Uruguay, where I served my mission,
were getting old, and several had
- already passed away, so it was time to
go back, whether I had the money or
- not. Since we had promised each of our
kids a major trip before they
- graduate from grade 12, the time was
right for Peter to get his trip, so
- Barbara and I decided it would be
great for Peter to go with me, but that
- meant Barbara would not be able to go.
Once I put together the itinerary,
- Barbara thought it would have been
pretty rough anyway.
-
- Since we wanted this to be an
adventure, I had a rough idea of what I
wanted
- to see, and Peter approved it, so then
it was a matter of fitting all of the
- highlights into what we could afford.
The major expense was airfare, so
- what we ended up doing was shopping
around for the cheapest airfare that
- would land us somewhere on the circuit
of sites we wanted to see, and take
- the bus once we were on the ground.
The airfare was found to be most
- affordable to Sao Paulo, Brazil, and
connected via Toronto, then Miami.
-
- So, for me, day 1 was leaving here
(Chilliwack) at 9:30 PM on Monday, April
- 17th, 2000. I drove as far as I could,
slept for about 4 hours, and got to
- Magrath at 5:00 PM on Tuesday. That
was my first night not in a bed.
-
- We packed up Peter's back pack, and
figured out what I could not fit in my
- back pack, and left that in the trunk
of the car. Our flight left Calgary
- at 1:30 AM (talk about a red eye
flight), and since we had no surplus money
- for this trip at all, I had phoned up
Gerry & Bonnie Nickyforuk and arranged
- to leave our car with them (his email
address, for all my brothers and
- sisters to put him on their lists, is
"sergandpep@hotmail.com" which is his
- cats, Serge & Pepper). It had been
way too long since I had heard any news
- from Nick's family, and it was great
to have some time with them, however
- short. His mom, Pauline, is doing much
better...there were some tense times
- for a while. Leaving the car there
saved us about $200 in long-term
- parking. That night on the plane was
my second night without a bed.
-
- We arrived in Toronto at 7:45 AM local
time Wednesday, and it was a very
- short lay-over. All we had to do was
retrieve our luggage, and clear
- customs before leaving Canada. We left
for Miami at 10:20 AM for Miami.
-
- When I mentioned to Maurine that we
had a lay-over in Miami, she reminded me
- that Uncle Glen lived near Miami, so
we phone Aunt Orva Tuesday on the cell
- phone and got Uncle Glen's number. We
called him (almost 10:30 PM Miami
- time) and found out that by chance he
had the day off, was going to be just
- finishing a dental appointment as we
arrived, and he could meet us and have
- us up to his house for a long over-due
visit. After I hung up (Glen will
- get a kick out of this) I asked Peter
if we had ever told him that Uncle
- Glen was gay or not. Peter goes, WHAT?
I have a gay uncle? It was a great
- visit. Peter napped a lot while Glen
and I gabbed and caught up on old
- times. I really enjoyed it. Glen and
Duane and a few more of their friends
- have a trip to China planned for
August that will give them a Vancouver
- lay-over, so we will look them up then
again. I really enjoyed meeting
- Glen's "lawn lady". She does their
lawn work, and must be 60'ish or more,
- and has a sense of humour like Robin
Williams. She came right at the end of
- our steak dinner and I haven't laughed
so much over dessert for a very long
- time. Uncle Glen had a "clothing
optional" swimming pool in his back yard,
- and Peter and I had both taken our
swim suits, but I was too busy visiting,
- and Peter was too busy napping to
swim. We were holding out for the beaches
- in Brazil and
Uruguay.
- The plane left for Brazil at about
midnight, and arrived in Sao Paulo at
- 8:50AM local time, so that was my
third night without a bed. Our first
- target was to get to Uruguay for
Easter Sunday, so we didn't waste any time
- in getting to the bus terminal. This
bus terminal in Sao Paulo would rival
- the biggest train stations in Europe,
taking up 2 city blocks with 4
- platforms and 80 "gates". It was
incredible. We bought our tickets to
- Porto Alegre and had about 3 hours to
kill, so we took a walk looking for
- this shopping centre we had seen on
the drive in. We were warned in the
- "travel books" that the bus terminals
are not built in the best
- neighbourhoods... and they were right.
I am just glad it was 10AM instead
- of 10PM. We found the shopping center,
eventually (rough getting directions
- in Portuguese when I only speak
Spanish), just in time to realize that we
- needed to be getting back to the bus
terminal, but it was enough for Peter
- to fully realize that we "weren't in
Kansas anymore Toto", as if the heat of
- Miami wasn't enough to realize Canada
had been left behind.
- Between the Airport Service from the
Sao Paulo GRU airport (one of three
- airports) in the Northeast corner, and
the bus trip on it's way to Porto
- Alegre, it took three hours to cross
to the Southeast corner, mostly on
- freeways. The city had to be 200
kilometers across, and I guess it takes
- some space to cram 13 million people
into a city. We had not planned on
- seeing the Sao Paulo temple, since I
had no idea where to look for it, nor
- how to ask directions, but the bus
stopped for some traffic congestion on
- the way out of the city, and I looked
out the window, and saw the Sao Paulo
- temple! What a
bonus.
- The rest of the trip to Porto Alegre
took until 10 AM on Good Friday (18
- hours on the bus, and my 4th night
without a bed). All in all, in 15 days,
- we would travel 5,000 kilometers and
spend 72 hours on buses (4 nights). In
- addition to that, there were 28 hours
on the airplanes (3 nights). We would
- visit 6 countries (including Canada
and the USA) and see 16 cities that
- Peter had never been in
before.
- More about Porto Alegre in the next
letter.
Love,
Lester
Day 3 and
4
Subject: Day 3 & 4 - Porto Alegre, Brazil to
Fraile Muerto, Uruguay
Dear Friends:
- Well, after arriving in Porto Alegre
on Good Friday, April 21st, we had
- about 4 hours to kill before the next
8 hour bus ride began, so we looked up
- what there was to see as per our
"Brazil Travel Book", and decided to go see
- the cathedral. Well, it was quite a
typical city, for South America, except
- we found a MacDonald's on the plaza.
After leaving the MacDonald's we saw
- this lady stand up from squatting next
to the flower bed, and pull up her
- underwear from around her ankles.
Okay, so things are pretty casual down
- there. As we walked back to the bus
terminal, we saw a sign painted on a
- wall on one of the side streets that
read "Favor Nao Urinar Neste Local"
- (which means, "Please don't pee here
on this wall"). Well, I guess that
- serves them right for charging to use
a public toilet down there.
- After the 8 hour bus ride to Yaguaron,
the border town with Uruguay, it was
- getting late, like about 8PM, and
already dark, so we trotted across the
- international bridge to Rio Branco,
Uruguay, only to find out that the last
- bus left 30 minutes before. Well, we
were prepared to stay in a Hotel or
- Pension (boarding house), but alas,
they were all full due to Good Friday
- celebrations in Yaguaron. They told us
in Rio Branco that Yaguaron had more
- Hotels, so we walked the 2 kms back
across the bridge (and said hello to the
- border patrol again). Well, that was a
waste of time and energy because
- they were all very full too, so we
went back to the border patrol to see if
- we could use their
phone.
-
- The lady was very helpful, but the
chapels don't
- have phones, so they aren't listed in
the phone books, and neither are the
- Bishops. I tried the Mission home, but
there was no answer, so just as I
- was getting desperate, the border lady
came in and mentioned that a
- co-worker told here where the chapel
was, and she gave us some very direct
- instructions, but it was about 2 kms
further into town. At the first sign
- of people, we asked if we were on the
right track. He had no idea, so the
- next group was about 5 youth between
10 and 13 years of age. They assured
- us the chapel was just 2 or 3 blocks
ahead, and 2 blocks to the left, so we
- thanked them (it was good to be
speaking Spanish instead of Portuguese), but
- as we walked away, a young boy named
Victor came up on his bike and offered
- to show us exactly where the Elders
lived, they were just down the street
- from his house. Well, the Elders
weren't in, so he took us over to the
- chapel, but it had been closed down
for the night (they are all gated in
- down there), so we went back to the
Elders.
-
- Victor said he would just
go
- check at the Olivera's house for us,
while we went on up to the Elders flat,
- and sure enough, they were not back
yet, but here comes Victor, telling us
- that he found them at the Olivera's,
but they wouldn't believe that two
- Canadians were looking for them (one
was Chileno, the other from Venezuela).
- Well, I had taken about 10 $2 coins
with me for souvenirs for people who
- were especially helpful, so I had
given one to Victor, so he pulled this
- toonie out to prove to the elders that
he was telling the truth. Well,
- these Elders were "by the book", and
they thought they had better phone the
- Pres to get permission to let us sleep
on their floor. I thought, "Good,
- this will be okay because I had sent
email to Pres Timothy Olsen, and he
- knew I was coming, but NO, mission
policy is that nobody except missionaries
- stay in their quarters, and we were
told to contact the Bishop. Well, by
- now we had walked over 8 kms with
fully loaded back packs and it was 10 PM
- (the phone "booth" was a km away), so
the Bishop was in bed, but he got up
- and came out on the street to talk to
us. He asked what I could show him to
- verify who we were, so I pulled out my
temple recommend. He hesitated, then
- asked what I was doing in an
out-of-the way-place like Rio Branco, which
is
- not exactly on the way to anywhere
except country side (his name was Bishop
-
- Cacho Coimbra). When I told him about
my mission 20 years ago, and the fact
- that the most special people in
Uruguay to me lived in Fraile Muerto, he
- said, "And who would that be?" I told
him about Altamir and Elia Pereira,
- whom I had baptized, and he said "I
knew Altamir Pereira very well", and he
- invited us in to eat something while
we talked more. I had baptized Altamir
- in 1980, and within days he had been
ordained a Priest, then an Elder, and
- within 73 days was branch president.
Bishop Coimbra had joined the church
- in 1986, and within 95 days was branch
president, and he met Altamir at all
- of the leadership meetings in Melo,
and they shared much in common. He had
- no foam or spare beds at all, but we
could shower (after 4 days without
- changing clothes), and sleep on the
floor. It was a ceramic tile floor, and
- very hard, but after seeing a 4 inch
cockroach on the Yaguaron bridge, we
- were glad to not be in a city park
somewhere, sleeping on the ground. Peter
- could not get over the feeling that as
he showered, he was making a huge
- mess, since the showers are nothing
more than a pipe sticking out of the
- wall in the bathroom, over top of the
toilet, bidette, and sink, and the
- water just splashes all over the room.
The nicer bathrooms at least have a
- sloping floor toward the drain, and
these guys had a hot water heater! As
- bad as it was on the tile floor, it
was a fairly good night, and it was nice
- to be horizontal instead of sitting up
for the night. We traveled with
- sleeping bags, so we didn't need any
bedding, and we fashioned pillows out
- of our blue jeans and
shirts.
- It was also providential that Bishop
Coimbra worked at the local "Cambio"
- where money is exchanged. I was able
to buy enough pesos to take care of
- immediate needs for the next couple of
days, (being Easter weekend) and we
- were able to catch the 7AM bus the
next morning. It wasn't any trouble
- waking up for the 7AM bus...my hips
were pretty sore from the tile floor,
- and Bishop Coimbra got up to see us
off. He gave me a picture of the
- Montevideo Temple to ensure that Elia
had a picture. It was a wonderful
- chance meeting, but then, how much was
chance, we have to wonder. How Rio
- Branco became a ward, while Fraile
Muerto was closed, probably has a great
- deal to do with the fact that Bishop
Coimbra was in his 40's, and Altamir in
- his 80's. Since Bishop Coimbra was
made branch president, he served for 6
- years, then was on the Stake High
Council for 3 years, and then they created
- the ward and he became the Bishop,
where he has served ever since. After
- Altamir died, there really was no
leadership left in Fraile Muerto. Rio
- Branco is about 3 times as big
too.
- On Saturday morning, we went into Melo
by bus, had a one hour lay-over to
- walk around and get some bread treats
for breakfast, and see the Elders
- walking around, so then we went to the
chapel, saw more Elders (Peter was
- able to talk English for a bit). It
was then a 40 minute bus ride to Fraile
- Muerto, and we even saw some
"avestruz" (rhea, or South American
ostriches)
- on the way.
- As an aside, I shaved my moustache off
after 15 years, and everybody kept
- saying they thought we were brothers,
or at least that I certainly was not
- old enough to be Peter's dad. Hey!
That was the whole idea. I wasn't too
- sure how Barbara would take it though.
I had been thinking about it for a
- while, and I thought if I didn't do it
before I got a tan, I couldn't do it
- until next winter, so I shaved it off
when I picked up Peter in Magrath.
More to come later.
Love
Lester
Subject: Uruguay - Days 4 &
5
- Well, I am waiting for the truck to
get back from the "dough run" to the
- Pretzel stores, and we will leave for
Alberta. To kill time, I will send
- the next
installment.
- Drew Weidman, my companion in Fraile
Muerto, has been waiting anxiously for
- the continuing saga in Fraile Muerto.
The big occasion there was how many
- of the Trotto family I was able to
locate. Drew baptized 3 of the 13 kids
- after I left. The 14th was born,
Herman, shortly after I left (she was
- pregnant), and them #15 came later,
Marcel. The very sad news was that Juan
- (who was 16 I think, when we were
there) had died of a tumor. There was a
- lot of controversy over malpractice
involved, since the tumor may have been
- connected to a medical procedure that
had been done. The tumor formed in
- his cerebellum and was inoperable. My
Spanish is great when talking church
- and gossip, but get me into medical or
business jargon, and I founder a bit,
- so I wasn't grabbing all of the
details. He died about 6 years ago. His
- mom was so distraught over losing
Juan, that her health began to
- deteriorate, and although officially
she died of something like a severe
- stroke or aneurysm type of thing, it
was too much of a coincidence that it
- happened after Juan died (9 months
after) for everybody to ignore as a
- coincidence.
- (this next paragraph is just for
Drew Weidman, everybody else can skip it
if
- they want)
- Well, after church on Sunday we went
out to visit, and saw Jose (the oldest
- Trotto) and Herman heading over to
Selva's (the second oldest), so we tagged
- along. We had a most enjoyable visit.
Jose has 2 girls and lives in Melo,
- but was there for the weekend (drives
a farm truck with Jaime), Selva
- married well, had 4 kids, and
divorced, but ended up well heeled with a
- beautiful house. She even has an
automatic washing machine and a built in
- shower stall in her bathroom. Met
Milagro, one of her girls, and her boy
- came in just as we left. Jorge (now
38) lives in Montevideo. The three
- that were baptized are Raquel (lives
in Montevideo with 3 kids), Silvana (3
- kids and lives in the campana
(country), and Yvana (now 28 and 2 kids,
lives
- in Montevideo, but her son Matias was
there at Selva's house for Easter).
- Nelson, now 34, lives in Melo. Jaime
is still in Fraile, recently married,
- with a 2 month old. Alicia is 29 and
still in Fraile. Antonio is 25 and
- single, still in Fraile. Paulo is 24
and was traveling when we were there.
- Ornella, who was 4 and adorable while
were there, is now 24 and lives in
- Montevideo. Then there is Herman and
Marcel (19 & 18) who I met there.
- They were REALLY honestly delighted to
see me. When I say they were married
- , down there, you just don't
know...most are living common-law. Marriage
is
- quite rare, but they fondly remember
the times spent with the missionaries.
- It was truly a reunion of friends for
life, as was every visit we made in
- Fraile Muerto. It is no wonder that
when I remember my mission, I remember
- Fraile Muerto first, and then think,
"Oh yeah, I was also in a couple of
- other places". Selva had a piano
keyboard, and Peter really impressed the
- crowd with 8 memorized "modern piano"
pieces that everybody recognized.
- After the Trotto visit we went down
the hill next to the railroad tracks to
- try to find the house people referred
to when I asked about Jose Ferreira.
- It was on P-day splits when I spent
most of my time with Jose. He was 16
- and inactive, and we needed a priest
for Sacrament Meeting. He borrowed a
- bike and we would go out and pick
pecans, or chase avestruz (ostriches),
- looking for eggs. He also knew where
to test for baptismal locations (they
- needed to be deep, because the lady
was quite large, so we looked at several
- before I decided on in particular. The
first place we went, I got half way
- across the stream and a snake was
coming across toward me, so I quickly
- decided not to do any baptisms there.
I kept having visions of the serpent
- in the Garden of Eden, wondering if
breaking some of the rules on page 13 of
- the White Bible (missionary
handbook) were cause for "death by
snake-bite",
- the equivalent of the proverbial
"lighting strike". Jose's family life was
- rough at best. His father was known as
the town drunk, and his nick-name
- was "Mas-malo-que-un-Toro" (meaner
than a raging bull). They lived in a mud
- shack with a leaky thatched roof.
Well, Jose and his brother built two
- shacks (nicer than their folks was) on
the same lot as their mother's (his
- dad had the good sense to die about 15
years ago), but only slightly nicer
- than the mud and thatch. These had tin
roofs and concrete floors, but they
- shared the place with the ducks. While
we were visiting, a duck made it's
- way into the "living" room (it had a
TV and a couch, kind of) and went
- "splootch" on the floor right at my
feet. They looked at each other with
- the look on their faces that said "I
would normally ignore that, but since
- they are here, what should we do?".
Their oldest boy, Diego, is 12 and
- really deserving of more opportunities
than he is going to ever have offered
- to him. Good looking and very gentle
spirit...I wanted to bring him home,
- but...
- After leaving Jose's (he is common-law
with a lady, who I think came with 4
- kids), we went down to the beaches.
Peter kept asking me why I knew so much
- about the best swimming holes. I don't
think I sounded too convincing when
- I mentioned the "search for the
perfect baptismal font". It was just as
- beautiful as I remember it. It is a
very pretty stream.
- Didn't even mention church on Easter
Sunday. Had Peter & I, Elia, and the
- Rodriguez family of 5 (3 boys under 11
yrs). We met in Elia's living room.
- Peter learned the sacrament prayer in
Spanish and blessed the water, I
- blessed the bread, and the "acting"
Branch President passed the sacrament.
- There are 76 members on the records
for the branch, and two families came
- out. That town needs a missionary
couple in the worst way.
- Well, the truck is due home in 2
minutes, so I have to be ready to load up
- and get on the road to get to the
Kelowna store before 8 PM.
Love to all,
Lester
Dear Friends:
- I bet some of you thought I was never
going to finish the trip. My brother
- Fred does this all the time when he
travels, but his company gives him a
- laptop computer and he does it on the
fly, or from those luxurious Business
- Class Lounges with reclining chairs.
None of that for Peter and I, who
- traveled one class down from the
cattle cars, at least on the airplanes.
- The buses were great, well, as far as
a bus goes, I guess.
- Well, I left you all Sunday night in
Fraile Muerto, but I forgot a couple of
- things. Right after church we went out
to the cemetery to put fresh flowers
- on Altamir's cubby-hole (no burials in
the ground down there, just the bone
- banks, stacked 5 high). On the way we
saw one of the most sought after
- sites for Peter...a capybara
(carpincho in Spanish)...the worlds biggest
- rodent. I have sent a photo, and the
capybara in the photo is a two month
- old baby. They grow to be 130 cm long
and weigh 90 pounds. This guy will
- be ready to eat for this family by
Christmas. If the photo really drags
- some of your computers down, let me
know and I will not attach a photo
- anymore. For Drew, I will send more
photos separately.
- We had decided that since Peter really
didn't go half way around the world
- to hear people visit about old times
in a language that he didn't
- understand, we would get on our way.
We got on the bus at 1:00PM Monday,
- right after we ate the chicken that
Elia had introduced us to on Saturday,
- in it's coop. It was our hope that I
would have a long enough layover in
- Melo to visit Renelda in the hospital,
but no such luck. The next bus to
- Montevideo was only a 35 minute wait,
and it would allow us a 3 hour
- layover in
Treinta-y-Tres.
- When we got to Treinta-y-Tres, we
found that the Onda station had not
- changed, except for the name (Onda
went broke I guess, and now they have 36
- bus companies hitting Tres Cruces in
Montevideo). We found the guys behind
- the counter most helpful and they kept
our bags for us for free (no formal
- bag storage there). We walked to the
chapel and couldn't find anyone, so we
- went back to the Onda and bought a
phone card to make a few calls. Found
- out that Lino Medina's number as
provided in the Church Directory was
- correct, and his wife assured me that
he still owned the pharmacy and that I
- could find him there, so we walked
down to his pharmacy. Found out
- disturbing news, which Richard Palmer,
you may have already heard, but Jorge
- Medina had died two weeks before I got
there. His mom was the missionaries
- "mom" and she cooked for us in Stella
& Juan Carlos' home. She was so glad
- to see Elder Palmer come back and was
so proud to say that Jorge had gotten
- active in the church again, and then
to lose him so suddenly was a very
- traumatic experience. She lives way
out on the outskirts of town, and we
- couldn't get out to see her, and there
was no phone, but we sent her out
- love by way of the Moyano's. We found
the Moyano home after the pharmacy,
- and visited with Brilda. She called
Stella and Juan Carlos, and they came,
- and Manrique came by just before his
mom and dad arrived. He was a
- pain-in-the-neck 2 year old when we
were there, but now he is a great young
- kid. Found out my London Fog trench
coat had been on it's 3rd mission
- before being retired. I sold it to
Brilda, and a young guy took it on a
- mission, and then when Stella's oldest
went on a mission it went again (it
- went to Argentina both
times).
- We arrived in Montevideo at 11:10PM
and took a taxi to Yolanda and Jorge
- Virdo's place, not even thinking to
get change from the 100 peso bills that
- I had. I had to beg money from Yolanda
to pay the cabby. Yolanda is the
- daughter of Almirinda, who I baptized
while in Treinta-y-Tres. Almirinda is
- Elia's sister. I believe it was
Richard Palmer who went to Melo with me to
- do that baptism. I had to receive
special permission from the mission home
- to go back up into the Melo distinct,
but I had taught Almirinda when I was
- at Elia & Altamir's in Fraile
Muerto, and it was a special privilege to be
- asked to baptize
her.
-
That will be enough for today.
More later,
Lester
- I can't believe it was June 19th the
last time I wrote. This is pathetic,
- but I am getting this written. At this
point it is as much for the benefit
- of my journal as it is to fill you all
in on how wonderful the trip was.
- My journal reads like "Termas del
Dayman, heladeria, cemetery, 2:30PM bus to
- Argent, slept over dam, soldiers &
police w/ automatic weapons, nerves at
- border crossings, Concordia Shopping -
shirt, 7:10PM bus, double deck,
- movies, hot 34C@11AM, stuffed for $7."
Not exactly what I want to leave for
- posterity, so here goes the less
condensed version.
- We arrived at 6:30AM in Salto,
Uruguay. The thermal hot springs nearby were
- highly recommended. The water comes
out of the ground at 47 degrees
- Celsius! They have 17 pools of varying
temperatures. We stayed until 11 AM
- (slept in the coolest pool for about
an hour). After the Italian ice cream
- in Montevideo, we were hooked, so we
found an heladeria in Salto before our
- bus left at 2:30PM. I had heard as a
missionary that the Salto cemetery was
- one of the most spectacular in
Uruguay, and it turned out to be just across
- the street from the bus station. I
have embedded a picture of it, for
- those who can read photos into their
e-mail (HTML format). Those monuments
- are crypts and after they scrape the
flesh off the bones (after being left
- without embalming for about a year),
they but the bones in oversized shoe
- boxes and store them on shelves under
or inside of these crypts. Most have
- a ladder down below ground level under
the monuments. This one was old and
- neglected, and looked like it came
right from an Alfred Hitchcock horror
- movie.
- To get to Argentina from Uruguay you
have to drive across this really wide
- (but not very high) hydro-electric
dam. It is on all the promo photos and
- postcards of the area, and guess what?
I slept across the dam and didn't
- even see it! I couldn't believe it. I
was struggling and struggling to
- stay awake, but I lost it right after
the border crossing and was toast all
- the way into
Concordia.
- The Argentine military are unreal. We
thought Brazil was bad with the guy
- and his machine gun on the balcony at
the bus station in Sao Paulo, but holy
- cow! The Argentine border guards are
all armed like that, and man do they
- put on airs of authority. You feel
like you are going to prison for a week
- because your papers were not quite
what a tourist should be showing (why
- did you enter Uruguay at Yaguaron
anyway...who in their right mind would
- come in to Uruguay through Rio Branco?
Why didn't you fly into Montevideo?
- Why aren't you going to Buenos Aires?
It isn't like they were just
- curious...they were probing for any
hint that I wasn't up and up with them.
- They let up a little bit when I
explained about my mission, and the
- Pereiras in Fraile Muerto, and my
plans to get to Iguazu on a budget. Thank
- goodness I had read in one of the
travel books that you would NOT be
- allowed into Argentina under any
circumstance if you lost your entrance
- paper to Uruguay, and similarly, you
could not get back in to Brazil without
- showing that you had properly left the
country by producing the exit paper
- from the last point you exited Brazil.
The passports and related
- documents are a real source of nerves
bouncing between countries down
- there. Not for the faint of heart, I
assure you.
- Concordia was going to give Peter his
last (and only) chance for really
- serious shopping for a Soccer jersey
for the "official" World Cup team. We
- found one relatively easy (much easier
than Brazil and Uruguay) at a really
- classy shop. The MasterCard was
holding strong, so we continued to put as
- many purchases as we could on there
(self insuring against theft or loss
- that way). We tested the bank machines
in each country for cash
- withdrawals too, and they worked in
every country, but not on every
- machine. Brazil was the worst for
finding the right bank machine that
- connected to our Bank of Montreal
account.
- The bus didn't leave until 7:10PM so
we had time for a leisurely meal of
- "milanesa" steaks. We picked an open
air restaurant near the bus terminal
- that just opened (5:30 is VERY early
for supper there), and we were the
- only ones in the place. The lady
helping was very friendly, asking us
- what we were doing in Concordia, and
so the subject of the church came up.
- As it turned out, she is a member and
she is the "cook" for the Elders in
- Concordia. Our supper cost us $3.50
each and we were absolutely stuffed
- full.
- We got another double decker bus, but
not the front seats, but that was
- better because we had slept half the
day away, so we were in the mood to
- watch movies all night, and the TV
monitor is right over your head if you
- are in the front row. We got to see
(in English with sub titles)
- Mission Impossible and Bulletproof
(with Adam Sandler). Bulletproof was
- funny.
Love to you all,
Lester Leavitt
*not from step------here are some pics that came
along emails.
Peter
with a Carpincho

Salto